Tuesday, October 18, 2011

The Osage Orange

An Osage orange I picked up along the upper reaches of the Potomac River and brought home. It has a most pleasing scent.

While Carole and I were exploring the Smokehole Canyon in West Virginia, I happened to see an Osage orange tree growing along the banks of a branch of the Potomac River. The tree had dropped ripe fruit into that river, perhaps aiding in spreading the seeds downstream.

And this reminded me of the fate of that tree.

The Osage orange is native to parts of Texas and Arkansas and Oklahoma. It does grow in other parts of North America due to it being planted by Europeans. I recall seeing them from time to time in the woods of my native Georgia where it was known as "the horse apple", because of the fact that horses will sometimes eat the ripe fruit.

The pre-Indian North American horse.

However, from evidence, it was once far more widespread than it is today. This is probably because the "oranges" were a favorite food of several large extinct mammals. Back then, the fruit would go through the digestive systems of these large animals and the seeds would be distributed widely in their travels within their dung. It's figured that such creatures as Mammoths, mastodons, giant sloths, and probably even horses ate Osage oranges and shat the seeds far and wide.

The Imperial mammoth, which likely ate lots of Osage oranges.

Alas, the arrival of humans to North America put an end to most of our continent's megafauna, and so the Osage orange lost its main vectors of distribution.

Today, you see it rarely out of its current range. But at one time it went wherever the big mammals roamed. Mammals that were all killed and eaten up by the vast tribes of the folk we now refer to as the Native Americans.

And now the tree probably best finds distribution via waterways?



(With a tip of the hat to Mark Gelbart's GEORGIA BEFORE PEOPLE.)

Monday, October 17, 2011

The Salamander!

Carole loves to take train rides. We've been on a few one-day jaunts, mainly in the mountains of North Carolina and West Virginia. Since most passenger train service is gone from that area, the only places to enjoy such an experience are where some public/private concerns have taken over short bits of rail lines, paid out the money for the purchase and upkeep of the necessary engines and rail cars, and instituted a tourist ride.


We found one such outfit in Elkins, West Virginia and promptly booked a couple of tickets. The day we went the weather was quite nasty, so we knew we weren't going to get any hiking and picnicking done. The price of the tickets included a buffet lunch, so we didn't even have to pack that. All we had to bring were some spare jackets (for rain), the camera, and a tripod. And off we went!

We took the Salamander, so named because of the endangered Cheat Mountain salamander. So they tagged it onto the official name for the line. The city of Elkins has refurbished the old train station--it's quite pleasant to look at and inside there is a museum, ticket office, information kiosk, a shop, and rest rooms.

We arrived for our ride at 9:30 am, and boarded the train at 10:00 am. After that, we were on our way!


The station in downtown Elkins, WV.

The choo-choo train!

The "green" car, and my sweet wife already making friends with the couple behind us before we can even sit down.

This guy was our guide and entertainment for the ride. He had a lot of cool history and information about our route and the cool stuff along it.

A rough section of whitewater taken through the window along the ride. The water appears "dirty" but in fact this river is one of the ten cleanest in the USA. The color is from tannins produced by tens of thousands of years of the drop of hemlock and spruce needles into the soil.

An abandoned rail bridge and rail line we pass along the way.

The most scenic destination on the ride: The High Falls of the Cheat River. They are called "high" not because of the height of the falls (only about 15 feet), but because they are located so high on the river--about 3,000 feet elevation. Also, they're not technically on the Cheat River, but on the Shavers Fork of the Cheat, which runs into the Cheat River. Because of the heavy rain, the volume of water going over the falls was very impressive.


Below the Falls.

Self-portrait in the rain. The rocks were VERY slick! If you go, be careful! It was really starting to pour down so I had to hurry this shot and get the camera dry.

The falls from above.


Video from above High Falls of the Cheat River.

The dining car where we were served sandwiches buffet style. The sandwiches were very good! Lots to drink, too. Tea, water, lemonade, coffee, hot chocolate, etc. And fruit and cookies, also.

These were once for men working on the rail lines. The company would drop them off with a couple of cooks and food and they would work the lines. Later, a train would stop to pick them up. After the line was abandoned, these houses were bought by individuals and are now private. Access is pretty much either by arranging a ride on the Salamander, or hiking in, or getting the Forest Service to unlock a gate on a primitive road. Our guide told us that he sees the owners using these two houses only a few times per year. They are extremely isolated.

The end of the line where the engine detached and reversed the train. It's called The Cheat Bridge.

We all got out to stretch our legs while the engine made its changes.

This is what happens when kids live in an isolated village with a population of 20. This car was stolen by some local teens in Bemis. Really. Only about twenty people live there year-round. The few kids were bored. So they hiked out, found this car, boosted it, drove it around for awhile and then somehow aimed it straight down the mountain and maneuvered it through the forest down a 40-degree slope and crashed it here next to the train track. The final impact set off the airbags. No one has yet been able to figure out how to get it the hell out of its current location. Despite appearances, this is not a road, but just a patch of green out in the middle of nowhere. I assume the insurance folk will just consider it totaled and pay the owners off.

And here is Carole getting off the train as we arrive back in Elkins!

Sunday, October 16, 2011

West Virginia Vacation 2011

We're just in from our vacation. I'll post a few photos, but list some details later.

I have to say, having now toured just about every eastern state, that West Virginia is pretty much the most scenically beautiful state in the eastern USA.


I've been to Seneca Rock many times. And I knew that there were trails on the mountain, but I did not know that you could actually reach the very high summit without resorting to a technical climb. Well, I reached the high point after a hike with an elevation gain of about 1,000 feet that involved only a brief scramble up a steep slope to get to the very tip of the mountain.

This is the view reserved only for those who reach the top of Seneca Rock. Don't look for it on any of the trails. It ain't there. (Click to embiggen this beauty.)


Seneca Rock from the visitors center at the base of the mountain. As you can see, from the spot where I was standing in that first photo, if you go in the wrong direction without the proper equipment and training, you're in for a very painful death.


This is the brief rock scramble I had to make past the official trail to achieve the summit. I suppose this is what rock climbers refer to as "Class III" scrambling. Maybe not even that severe. But about the limits of my comfort levels.

Friday, October 07, 2011

Click to Embiggen

Well, the blog will be going on hiatus while we're on vacation. My son is staying at home to hold down the fort (and feed the cats).

We haven't been to this section of West Virginia in four years. We're very much looking forward to seeing it again and venturing to some spots we've never seen. Barring Internet access at some point, I'll speak to you folk in a couple of weeks!

Bear Rocks in the Dolly Sods Wilderness.

Me, at Bear Rocks.

Seneca Rock. This is a major rock climbing area for the east coast. They claim it's one of the best places around to learn the sport of rock climbing.

If you'll look closely, you can see tiny ant-like humans climbing the sheer cliff walls. Click to see this image at full size.

Wednesday, October 05, 2011

Furry Panhandler

Still too tired and too busy to post much on the blog.

Here's a photo I took inside the lookout tower on Mount Washburn in Yellowston National Park last year. This little ground squirrel was panhandling, but I resisted and did not give him anything to eat. He was very cute and very friendly.

Go away, cutie!

On the way back down I stopped to take this self-portrait.

Tuesday, October 04, 2011

Worn Out...

I'm far too tired and way too busy to blog.

So, here's my favorite photograph of my little boy before he grew up. (He's 24 years old now.) Gosh, he was a sweet little child.

All I recall about this is that it was an Easter Sunday and we were hunting Easter eggs.

Sunday, October 02, 2011

Photo Tour of our Casita.

Since we spend so much of our vacation time in our tiny Casita trailer, and since it's been a long time since I posted much about it here, I figured I should put a brief tour of the tiny trailer on the blog.

We bought our Casita second-hand from a couple whose health no longer allowed them to use it. It's a 2002 model so we bought it when it was just a few years old. The darned things are made of two sections of molded fiberglass, so they just don't leak. As anyone who has owned a sitck-built trailer will tell you, those begin leaking in pretty short order. So when we decided to buy a travel trailer the two things foremost in our minds were gas mileage and durability. One of my pals at work had bought a Casita, and after looking over several of the molded fiberglass varieties, we opted for that one.

Carole and I visit mainly National Parks and National Forest campgrounds, so the Casita was perfect for us. Those places are sometimes hard to access for larger travel trailers and motorhomes. So the Casita--at only 17 feet--fits in just about any of the campgrounds we use. It makes a wonderful base camp for me when I go hiking, and Carole is safe and comfortable inside the solid walls of the trailer while I'm tramping through the wilderness. (Keep in mind that we decided to go for a hard-sided travel trailer after having our campsite raided by a black bear at the Standing Indian Campground in the Nantahala National Forest.)

Today we went to Carole's mom's place where we store the trailer. Once there we got about cleaning the Casita and getting it stocked and ready for our next trip. I had to wash the entire outside of the trailer from stem to stern, including climbing on top and scrubbing the roof and A/C unit. Carole scoured out the interior and stocked the pantries. After that, I got about the business of cleaning up the truck for the long trip ahead of us next week.

We had a full day getting ready for this new vacation. It's all part of the fun of heading out, I reckon.

View from the bed looking back at the rest of the Casita.

We leave the bed permanently as a bed. But it also converts into a dining table suitable for four persons. We just don't see the need to take up the bed format. This leaves plenty of room underneath for storage. That's our TV on the shelf at the foot of the bed (covered in a protective sheath).

The bathroom is akin to a marine head. Very small and compact, but it comes in handy when we're staying in places that have neither water nor electric hookups, and which don't provide bath facilities. The trailer has black water and gray water tanks and has a 24-gallon fresh water tank, with a six-gallon hot water heater. The bath is tall enough for me to stand up with some room to spare when I use it to shower.

The bath view showing the shower and sink. (We have a tub filled with towels, which we remove when we arrive at our destination.)

The sink/stove setup. We have rarely used the stove for much beyond heating water or making coffee. We do 99.9% of our cooking outside to keep cooking smells out of the trailer and to just make things more comfortable.

The refrigerator/freezer. This unit runs on both electric and gas.

People are always surprised at the size of the refrigerator and freezer.

The closet beside the door.

And the dinette where we often eat, play cards, or where I write.

The happy couple in midst of getting the Casita ready for travel. I had to open the awning and scrub it down with bleach, which I do several times a season.

Saturday, October 01, 2011

Where We're Headed for Vacation:

I took all of the following photos in West Virginia in 2004 when we visited the area around Helvetia, WV. We had a wonderful time there and have decided that we want to return there for another shot at seeing some of the stuff we missed, plus seeing again some of the spots we loved so much the first time we were there.

A lot of places we visit we get enough of them so that we don't want to go back after one visit. But there are a few spots we see where we feel like we have to return. This part of West Virginia is one of them. The first time we went I didn't get a chance to climb some of the mountains I wanted to hit, plus we missed a few parks that were in the area, along with some places like a sugar maple farm and a cheese store that was high on our list to visit.

We found this haunted house by accident while joyriding on a lonely gravel road on top of a high mountain. We want to go back and see if it's still there.

A super-cool waterfall called Shupe's Chute in Holly River State Park. I'll be hitting this place with the new camera to get some high-quality photographs.

The Falls on the North Fork of the Holly River.

This was beside our campground at Holly River State Park in early June of 2004. The creek was way up due to heavy rainfall. It rained virtually the entire time we were there. I'm hoping for more mild weather this time.

A footbridge in the village of Helvetia, West Virginia.

Library and other buildings in Helvetia.

Along the river in Audra State Park.

A peaceful swimming hole in Kubrabow State Forest.

Friday, September 30, 2011

Taffey Lewis

At the top of my list of favorite movies is the science-fiction film BLADE RUNNER which was adapted from the equally brilliant novel DO ANDROIDS DREAM OF ELECTRIC SHEEP by Philip K. Dick, probably the most talented writer ever to turn his pen to science-fiction.

Among the things that set that film apart from other genre movies is the excellent cast made unforgettable by the direction of Ridley Scott. Most of us are quite familiar with the major players in BLADE RUNNER, but even the incidental characters stand apart. One character in the movie who remains foremost in my mind was Taffey Lewis. He runs a nightclub in an apparently rougher part of town--so seedy that the replicant Rachael, portrayed by the then-stunningly gorgeous Sean Young initially refuses an invitation to meet Deckard (Harrison Ford) there because she doesn't visit such sleazy places.

"The man's dry. Give 'im a drink."

Taffey Lewis was played by a character actor named Hy Pyke who died in 2006 and left not much of a record in major films. This is a shame, because his brief few seconds on the screen in my favorite movie was an amazing bit of acting work.

So, the next time you have a beer or a glass of wine, raise a toast to Hy Pyke, who never reached a larger audience, but probably should have.

"Buzz off."

Thursday, September 29, 2011

Work-in-progress

Here's a bit of a teaser from my current work-in-progress:


THE REZ

By

James Robert Smith

Copyright 2011.

“You know what they’re saying, don’t you?” The reporter would have jammed a microphone into Professor Maxwell’s face if they still had that kind of thing. As it was, the so-called journalist merely leaned into the scientist’s personal space, causing him to cringe a bit.

“Yes, I’m quite aware of what they’re saying,” the Professor replied. He stood tall and rather imposing over the news man, not at all the type of person one generally thought of when it came to String Theory and thermodynamics and the utilization of anti-matter.

Since the scientist had not taken the bait, the reporter pressed on. “There are those who say that when you flip your switches tomorrow afternoon, the world is going to come to end. They claim that you’re trying to harness energies that are untested and which cannot be contained no matter what safeguards you may have in place.” He paused, a look of false concern on his pale face. “What do you say to those people?”

Maxwell smiled his perfect smile, showing the great dimples and cleft chin that could have landed him roles in Hollywood (or so he’d been told). His eyes crinkled in amusement and his brow lifted his perfectly combed blonde hair a few millimeters. “I’d tell them what we’ve been telling them all along. There’s nothing even remotely dangerous about what we’re doing here at Concentrated Dynamics. We’re hoping to solve a lot of problems and begin to answer a lot of questions by a lot of the most talented minds on this planet.”

“And that’s all? You expect those words to salve the concerns of hundreds of scientists the world over?” Once again the reporter leaned in too close to the Professor.

Maxwell frowned, and he wanted to push the little weasel away from him, but he bit down and kept his impatience at bay. “Those concerns are unfounded,” he said, his voice deep and heroic and nothing like the bookworm nebbish most often conjured in the minds of those who thought at all about physicists and theoreticians and their type. “And it’s hardly the hundreds you mention, and I might add that these are the same kinds of people who were worried about the super-collider in Lucerne before it started operation. Nothing happened then and there, and I assure you that nothing unfortunate will happen here in Missouri when we start our operations in just a few hours.”

At that, the reporter turned to the camera man and made a slashing motion with his hand. He looked up at the towering figure of the scientist and smiled wanly. “Thanks, Prof,” he said. “We’ll have a bit on the news this evening if you want to check it out. News at Six and probably again later in the evening.”

“I’ll probably be much too busy to watch,” Maxwell admitted. It was true. But he could imagine that this fellow and his editors would add something inappropriate and ominous to the report, to suggest that the fate of the world was hanging in the balance of what they were trying to achieve, and over what they were going to do when next the planet turned on its axis.

“Well, thanks for your time,” he said. And quickly the reporter and his camera man were hustling into a plain white car of recent make—a hybrid, Maxwell noticed. Soon they were gone, the auto easing soundlessly away on its electric engine.

David Maxwell sighed in relief. That was the last of them, he knew, until the next day, of course. But he and his investors had refused any more press requests until after the dynamo was operational. It wasn’t as if the rubes could do more than glean the basics of what he and his associates were trying to achieve, so he had grown weary of the almost constant questioning and cajoling among the press.

As it was, he and the rest of the crew had fended off the endless requests for reporters to be present the next day when the system went automated. So far, they’d only run various computer simulations of what kinds of results they were going to get when they finally did flip that final switch and use the gigawats of energy they’d managed to procure from Danforth Power and Light. One of their chief investors sat on the board of that company and they’d managed to get what they needed:

For a little more than an hour, between 8:00 am and 9:12 am the following day, the entire output of the Lake Simmon Nuclear Plant would be at their disposal. Coal-fired steam plants would take up the slack during that time, so the average customer would never notice that one of the most advanced power facilities in the Midwest was going to be effectively offline for a short time.

But in that time Maxwell and his colleagues hoped to make history.

They were going to show that it was possible to harness unlimited energy production through the creation and utilization of anti-matter. And all done within the confines of a space not much larger than a child’s bedroom. He and the other researchers and theoreticians hoped to form a magnetic sphere within that space, and to fill it with a speck of energy that would create enough electricity to power the entire grid for a few moments, before the experiment was ended and the process was halted.

And there lay the fears, of course. A few of their rivals claimed that the process, once begun, could not be stopped. They feared that a constant and growing stream of anti-matter would be siphoned into the magnetic sphere and eventually overwhelm that area and spill out of it. Dylan Maxwell grunted and his Hollywood face was marred with a frown. He was tired of dealing with the doomsayers.

And, too, he had to admit to himself that one of the computer models that he and his fellows had run indicated something very much like that could happen. The chance was very small—less than one in ten billion. But it was there, and that’s why some men feared the coming experiment. Those men had figured it was the last such effort Mankind would ever make.

Shrugging to no one and to the World, he walked up to the door of the building that housed the whole of Concentrated Dynamics and keyed in his personal six-figure code. The lock disengaged for him, and the first thing he saw when he opened that door was Millie’s smiling face. He smiled back. She was, in addition to being one of the finest physicists he knew, also his lover, his wife, and the mother of their two children.

“Did you have much trouble with him?” she asked, her right arm reaching out to take him by the waist. She was wearing a white coat and slacks, and her hands were in latex gloves. She’d obviously just come from one of the clean rooms.

“No. He tried a few leading questions, but I avoided them.” His own arm was around her slim shoulders and he leaned over to kiss the top of her head and get a whiff of her hair. He loved the smell of her.

“I hate that little bastard,” she admitted. “He’s really a creep.”

“You’re talking about the reporter.”

“Yes. Stossel. What a shithook.”

Maxwell nodded his head and grinned with some guilt. He never had been able to quite get over his wife’s potty mouth. She could curse with the best of them, he was forced to admit, and there had been plenty of occasions when she’d embarrassed him completely. And now he feared the kids were going to take up her form of speech. They were both boys—seven and nine—and he didn’t quite know who they most took after: himself or his wife. So far, though, the cursing had not manifested itself in public.

“Well, I suspect that we’re done with that bunch until tomorrow around 9:15 in the morning.”

“As long as we don’t answer the goddamned phone,” she added.

Maxwell winced, and Millie saw the reaction. “Dear,” he said.

“Sorry,” she replied, rolling her eyes. “I’m just sick to death of those bas...those guys. If I don’t have to talk to another reporter for the next ten years it’ll still be a sore spot with me.” By then they had moved down the hallway and were preparing to go into the control room, the spot where, soon, David Maxwell and his crew would make history. If they were successful, the world would never hear the end of it. If they failed, their little group would never live it down.

A lot of money was tied up in this venture. Not as much as in something like the CERN reactor. But still plenty. That was the beauty of this project. It utilized a series of supercomputers to synthesize what others were trying to achieve with pure mechanics and raw energy. “If everything works, we’ll all wake up to a new world in twenty-four hours.”

Once again Maxwell found himself keying in a six-figure code and exposing himself to a face recognition camera. The door hissed open pneumatically and the Maxwells were greeted with a puff of sterile air as the high pressure in the room blew out into the low pressure of the hallway, admitting them, and leaving out the dust.

The rest of them were all there, working madly in the absence of their glorious leader.

Lewis Steiner was at his desk checking his software. Arnold Drake was going through a stack of schematics, his pen racing across the paperwork while he talked at a staccato pace into his cell phone, his head tilted at an odd angle to keep the phone in place. Carole Crain looked up from her own workstation and smiled at the married couple, waving from her spot in the clean room where the magnetic field would be created. And Larry Scofield was leaning against the wall, having taken up one of the few spots in the room that consisted of a bare space. He was, as usual, brooding silently, his genius mind working through the possibilities and the millions of conclusions that they might all face come tomorrow.

Going to his own desk Maxwell looked down at the red button that they’d all installed there. It was something grand and old-fashioned. It was true that the actual circuit would be computer activated, but they had hooked up the garish button as a kind of joke, and a nod to the physicists of old who had actually pressed such things to initiate a reaction. In a few hours, when he pressed that button, he would start a chain reaction that was going, he knew, to change the world for the better.

When the rest of the crew were secreted away in a lower bunker buried in the earth beneath the facility, he would be braving the experiment above ground, where he’d have to face the music up close and in person.

Later, he would wonder if it was his proximity to the workings of the experiment that saved him from the worst of it. At that point, though, he was only looking forward to the things that would soon take place, and he was filled with optimism and the promises their research offered. And he would always tell himself that all of the others, even the perennially gloomy Scofield, were likewise happy and expecting nothing but success. Success and flowers.

Tuesday, September 27, 2011

Working...

Had another fairly not-awful time at my regular-paycheck job today. Some back pain, but the knee feels better with each passing hour, it seems.

Working hard on my novel, THE REZ. Hoping to get it finished in the next few weeks.

Teaser image for THE REZ done by my Internet guru, Garrett Marks.

Monday, September 26, 2011

No Pain

Today was the first time back to work when I haven't been horribly limping or sick from the tetanus shot.

Carole and I have solidified our October vacation plans. Definitely the area around Helvetia, WV. It'll be good to get back there. I hope to hike up a few mountains while we're there.

Too busy writing to post much here. But I will include this stitched photo taken of me in 2006 by Jack Thyen at a waterfall in the Citico Creek Wilderness in western Tennessee. I was even able to get Carole to hike down to see this one. It was a fairly steep hike, too.

I was about 25 pounds lighter in 2006 than I am now. Hope to get back down to that weight again, which is one of the reasons I've been on such a strict vegetarian diet for the past couple of months.